I start working on the bodice by sewing the lace and underlining together. When I make a dart or a seam, the edges will be hidden under the underlining rather than showing through the lace.
I am not going to stitch the darts permanently until after I have fitted the dress on Adele. I am going to hand stitch some of lace on the darts to make the line less obvious, so I don’t want to do this until I am sure of the fit. I prepare for this final step by marking the darts now. I stitch loosely along the lines of the dart so I can see where they meet up. For now, I can loosely stitch it together, and when I’m ready to finalize, it will be easy to see where to cut and sew the lace.
The pattern shows the back of the underlining going almost straight across the back. We added a V shape in the back, so this is what I start with. Adele and I decide we want the V to slope down a little more to modernize it.
I mark where the belt and skirt will hit and decide on where I want the V to come down to.
I loosely stitch the seams together for the fitting. After the fitting, I can make any slight adjustments and start with all the details and finishing.
Keep in mind that any edges will be about 5/8″ in from where they are now so there will be extra fabric to leave inside the seam. The belt exists at this point, but I am having a terrible time trying to find the perfect shade of gold rope and embroidery thread to match the gold shoes. It all looks a little Christmas-y, so we may end up with the current color.
The back is looking good. I like the lower V neck.